Each year, the Kottankulangara Sree Devi Temple in Kollam district transforms into a vibrant stage for one of India’s most distinctive rituals: the Chamayavilakku festival. Here, thousands of men shed societal norms, donning sarees, jewelry, and elaborate makeup to honor Goddess Bhagavathy, seeking blessings for prosperity, health, and wish fulfillment.

Held annually in March, the 19-day festival culminates in its final two days with this striking tradition. Men of all ages, from locals to visitors from Tamil Nadu and beyond—even foreigners from New Zealand and London—participate.

Carrying chamayavilakku (five-wicked lamps), they circle the temple in a dazzling procession, their devotion blurring gender lines. This year’s event, peaking last night, drew over 5,000 participants, a spectacle of faith and fluidity.

The ritual traces back to a legend of cowherd boys who, dressed as girls, offered flowers to a stone that bled when struck, revealing divine power. A temple rose around this “swayambhoo” (self-originated) deity, birthing a custom that endures centuries later.

Today, beauticians and family members assist, charging Rs 500 to Rs 2,000 to perfect the transformation—shaving mustaches, threading eyebrows, and draping colorful attire.

The open-roofed sanctum, a rarity in Kerala, adds mystique as devotees like Deepu Yashodharan, a Middle East worker, return annually. “My wishes came true after I joined twice before,” he shared, lamp in hand.

The festival also unites the transgender community, making it Kerala’s largest such gathering. As dusk fell yesterday, the temple glowed with devotion, proving tradition thrives in unexpected forms.