Ten climbers, including celebrated Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal “Nims” Purja, were reported missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak, an 8,051-metre mountain in the Karakoram range, on Thursday. Four climbers were later confirmed dead, while Purja and five others remained unaccounted for as search efforts continued under difficult conditions. The tragedy has renewed attention on the extreme dangers faced by climbers operating above 8,000 metres, where severe weather, avalanches, oxygen deprivation and rapidly changing terrain can leave little room for survival.

Indian mountaineer Arjun Vajpayee described Purja’s achievements as extraordinary but acknowledged that his climbing approach involved considerable risk. Purja became globally known after completing all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 metres in six months and six days, breaking the previous record of nearly eight years. He later climbed all 14 peaks again without supplemental oxygen in less than two years and five months. Vajpayee said such risk-taking is often part of pushing the limits of high-altitude mountaineering, while praising Purja’s experience, preparation and ability to manage dangerous situations.

Norwegian mountaineer Kristin Harila said climbing multiple 8,000-metre peaks within a short period is physically demanding and inherently dangerous, particularly without supplemental oxygen. She explained that climbers moving without additional oxygen require more time to acclimatise, travel more slowly and face greater exposure to cold and exhaustion. Harila noted that the human body cannot survive for extended periods above 8,000 metres, commonly known as the death zone. She also said the lower sections of Broad Peak carry a significant avalanche risk, making conditions dangerous even before climbers reach higher elevations.

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Lieutenant Colonel Romil Bartwal, who has climbed Mount Everest, said Purja’s accomplishments reflected years of repeated expeditions and the mental strength developed during his military career. Born in Nepal, Purja served for six years in the elite Gorkha regiment and another decade with the United Kingdom’s Special Boat Service. Bartwal said mountaineers can identify slopes and weather conditions associated with avalanches in theory, but real situations develop so rapidly that climbers may have little time to react. He added that a second avalanche can often follow the first, further complicating rescue and escape efforts.

Mountaineer Bharat Thamineni stressed that survival at extreme altitude depends as much on mental control and decision-making as physical fitness. He said climbers and expedition leaders must continue making disciplined choices even when exhaustion, cold and reduced oxygen levels affect judgment. Bartwal also warned about “summit fever,” a condition in which climbers continue toward the peak despite deteriorating conditions because they believe the summit is close. He said experienced leaders must be prepared to order a retreat, although the pressure created by time, expense and proximity to the summit can make turning back difficult.

Vajpayee said climate change has made high-altitude climbing increasingly unpredictable, with receding glaciers, larger crevasses, irregular snowfall and unstable hanging ice creating additional hazards. He said avalanches can strike before climbers have time to apply their training, leaving them with few options beyond seeking cover or attempting to stay near the surface of moving snow. Harila called for stronger regulations to ensure climbers possess adequate training and experience before entering dangerous terrain. As uncertainty continued over Purja and the other missing climbers, members of the mountaineering community expressed hope for survivors while acknowledging that the chances diminish as more time passes.

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