Dior Faces Backlash for Uncredited $200K Mukaish Coat at Paris Fashion Week
Luxury Brand Criticized for Omitting Indian Artisans’ Role in Exquisite Overcoat
Christian Dior has sparked controversy for failing to credit the Indian artisans behind a $200,000 gold and ivory houndstooth overcoat, adorned with intricate mukaish embroidery from Lucknow, showcased at its June 27, 2025, Paris Fashion Week debut. The uproar follows closely on the heels of Prada’s Kolhapuri sandal controversy, reigniting debates about cultural appropriation in high fashion.
Jonathan Anderson, Dior’s new creative director for menswear and womenswear, unveiled the opulent coat, which took 12 artisans 34 days to craft using the traditional mukaish technique—a Lucknowi art form involving delicate metal-strand embroidery. Fashion commentator Hanan Besnovic, known as @ideservecouture on Instagram, highlighted the issue, noting, “The embroidery on this coat is made using the traditional mukaish technique. This is a traditional Indian hand embroidery technique,” yet Dior’s official statements omitted any mention of its Indian origins.
Mukaish, also known as “badla work,” is a centuries-old craft from Lucknow, often paired with chikankari, using twisted metal wires to create shimmering floral and geometric patterns. The technique, now practiced by few artisans, is considered a dying art. Critics have slammed Dior for profiting from this cultural heritage without acknowledging the artisans or their craft’s roots, especially given the coat’s staggering $200,000 (₹1.67 crore) price tag.
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This incident echoes Prada’s recent backlash for showcasing Kolhapuri-style sandals without crediting their Maharashtrian origins, prompting the brand to later acknowledge the inspiration after public outcry. Social media posts on X have amplified the Dior controversy, with users like @allycaralgoa and @WIONShowbiz calling out the lack of recognition for Indian craftsmanship.
The debate underscores a broader issue in luxury fashion: the need for ethical acknowledgment of indigenous crafts. As mukaish gains global attention, there’s hope Dior will address the oversight, giving due credit to the artisans preserving this intricate tradition.
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