Prada In Hot Waters Over Kolhapuri Chappals! Find Out Why
Prada Faces Legal Firestorm Over Kolhapuri Chappal ‘Theft’ in Bombay High Court PIL
Italian luxury fashion house Prada is embroiled in a legal battle over its alleged unauthorized use of the iconic Kolhapuri chappal design, with a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) filed in the Bombay High Court on July 2 demanding compensation for Indian artisans and a public apology.
The PIL, spearheaded by Intellectual Property Rights advocate Ganesh S. Hingmire, accuses Prada of cultural misappropriation and commercial exploitation of the GI-tagged Kolhapuri chappal, a centuries-old handcrafted sandal from Maharashtra, without crediting its artisans or heritage.
The controversy erupted after Prada showcased “Toe Ring Sandals” at its Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan on June 22, priced at over ₹1.2 lakh per pair, which closely resembled the traditional Kolhapuri chappals, known for their distinctive T-strap and buffalo-hide craftsmanship. These sandals, a cultural symbol of Maharashtra with GI status since 2019, typically retail in India for ₹400 to ₹4,000, with artisans often earning as little as ₹400 per pair.
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The PIL argues that Prada’s failure to acknowledge the design’s origins or compensate artisans has caused “significant harm” to Maharashtra’s artisan community, which numbers 15,000–20,000 but faces shrinking markets due to factory-made imitations. The petition demands a permanent injunction to stop Prada from marketing or selling the sandals, alongside damages and compensation for the artisans’ economic and reputational losses.
It also calls for stronger government policies to protect India’s Geographical Indication (GI) products from international infringement, citing the lack of robust global frameworks despite India’s GI Act of 1999. “Expecting fragmented artisan groups to file civil suits against a global fashion conglomerate is unrealistic and unjust,” Hingmire stated, proposing a court-supervised collaboration between Prada and artisan associations for co-branding and skill development.
Prada’s response, issued by Lorenzo Bertelli, Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, acknowledged the sandals’ inspiration from “traditional Indian handcrafted footwear” but was deemed insufficient by petitioners. The statement, made only after widespread social media backlash, was directed to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) rather than the public or artisans, prompting accusations of a “superficial attempt to deflect criticism.”
A planned meeting between Prada and MACCIA, scheduled for July 11 or 15, aims to explore collaboration, but the PIL insists on a formal apology and tangible remedies. The case has ignited a broader debate on cultural appropriation, with figures like Karnataka Minister Priyank Kharge and industrialist Harsh Goenka slamming Prada for profiting off artisans’ work.
The PIL also references other global brands copying Indian designs like brocade and bandhani, urging stricter protections. As the Bombay High Court prepares to hear the case, the outcome could set a precedent for safeguarding India’s cultural heritage against international exploitation.
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